ONE YEAR, PATAGONIA, AND GOING HOME

Once again, I’ve been slacking on blog posts…my apologies.

August 18 marked my one-year anniversary of living in Argentina. Roman and I tried to celebrate with a nice dinner out, but it was canceled and rescheduled several times, so really we didn’t do anything.  In order to keep this blog positive, I will note just two things about my time in Buenos Aires:

1.     It has been wonderful living with Roman.  Long-distance relationships are terrible.  We are very lucky that Argentina has given us the opportunity to see each other in-person everyday.   Being in each others’ physical presence is something that many couples take for granted, but it is something that Roman and I have been and will forever be thankful for.

2.     My experience living in another country has definitely made me a different person.  I never realized that anything was changing in me until I looked back and compared my current self to my year-ago self.  Most of the changes have been good, and absolutely none of them have been easy.  This last year has been one of the hardest of my life, but it has also one of the most rewarding.

Now, on to Patagonia…

Roman and I used some airline miles and flew to the south of Argentina for a week.  Since we were so close, we decided to head on to Chile as well.  We flew into El Calafate, from where we were able to visit the glacier Perito Moreno.  I had never seen a glacier before, so the sight was absolutely astonishing.  Pictures really don’t do it justice (or any of the places we saw for that matter).  Roman had visited the glacier before, but only from a distance.  This time he wanted to get closer, so we signed up for a glacier trek.  We put spikes on our shoes and hiked on the glacier for over an hour.  We were able to get so far into the glacier that it seemed we were on another planet, with pure water and the most beautiful blues imaginable.

From Calafate we traveled by bus to El Chalten, which is the home of Mt. Fitz Roy.  We spent the day hiking through Los Glaciares National Park (which is the home of Perito Moreno as well).  Once again, I can’t describe how beautiful the landscape is in Patagonia.   Everything is pure and perfectly pristine.

After El Chalten, we took a five-hour bus ride to Torres del Paine in Chile.  When I was younger, I used to sit on the computer looking for cool places in the world to go.  For a long time, I was fixated on Torres del Paine, so when I had the opportunity to go, I had to seize it.

Unfortunately, only our first day in the park was nice.  Our second and third were filled with rain that eventually turned into snow.  Our grand hiking plans were cut down, but we still managed to see some beautiful landscapes.  I suppose the weather just left us with more reason to return to the park in the future. 

When we were in El Chalten, Roman and I received the news that our interview for his fiancé visa is scheduled for October 28.  That means that our time here is coming to a close.  We should be back in the US before the middle of November.  We are both very happy to be moving to the next stage in our lives, but at the same time, I, at least, am also very anxious.  We both need to find a place to live and employment.  I feel like my life is a blank canvas…and while that provides me with amazing opportunity, it is also the most stressful thing in the world.  We both know, however, that we have an amazing support system and that we have each other to figure things out with. 

Thanks for following along with my blog from Argentina! 

TRAVEL TIPS

Just a few tips for traveling that I've found helpful....

1.  Kleenex Packs

I suggest always carrying a pack of facial tissues with you while traveling...especially if you are traveling in a non-developed country.  You will probably find yourself in a bathroom without any toilet paper, and some kleenex stuffed away in your purse can be a life-saver.

As well as the kleenex, I also suggest doing squats everyday or practicing utkatasana in yoga so that you are able to go to the bathroom without touching anything.  I found this especially useful when in Peru.


2.  Hand Sanitizer

Always carry hand sanitizer with you as well.  Just as there is not likely to be toilet paper, there is not likely to be soap.


3.  Hotel Business Card

I think I learned this one from my cousin...

Upon arriving at your hotel, make sure to grab a business card with the hotel's name and address.  Make sure to do this if you are in a country where you don't speak the language, so that you can hand it to a taxi driver or friendly person in case you get lost and can't communicate.


4.  Map

I don't usually take my iPhone with me when I travel outside the country.  I don't feel comfortable carrying it around with me, and I don't have service.  This will probably change when I move back to the US and will have an easier time replacing if it is lost or stolen.  For now though, I make sure I have a tangible non-electronic map instead.

It's a good idea to mark your hotel and other points of interest before you head out.  I feel more empowered and less nervous with a map on me.  I also always get people coming up to me and asking me for directions when I'm traveling.  Instead of saying, "Sorry, I don't live here," I'm able to whip out my map and help.


5.  Be Friendly

Do not be afraid to ask questions or talk to locals.  You will learn great things and meet awesome people.  If you know another language...or 'kind of' know another language...swallow your damn pride and speak it.  Even if you mess up, people will appreciate your effort.


6.  Cross-Body Bag

Always carry a bag with a strap that goes across your body when you travel.  Hand bags are easier to steal.  I also suggest getting a bag with a zipper or complicated closure.  If you are going to bring a backpack, make sure to wear it on your chest instead of back in crowded areas or on public transportation.  Obviously, when you sit down to eat at a restaurant, never put your bag on the back of your chair.  I also suggest somehow wrapping it around your leg, so it's not easily carried away without notice.


7.  Damage-Free Dollars

If you are going to exchange dollars for local currency, make sure to bring dollars that are without any rips or writing.  Some countries only accept perfect dollars at currency exchanges and won't take anything smaller than a twenty.

BRAZIL

Ahhhhhhhhhhh, Brazil!  How I love thee!

Román and I went for a little vacation to Brazil last week and had a wonderful time!

We stayed in Rio for a few days before we headed to Buzios, which is a small resort town a few hours away.  On this trip, we did many touristy things and just took it easy by walking, relaxing, and eating a lot of fruit.  The weather was not bad for the time of year.  Even in the middle of winter, we had four good days of sun and warmth (meaning that it was hot enough to swim).

But, I suppose the things that stood out to me most about Brazil were the people, the scenery, and the food!

In general, the people in Brazil were very friendly!  We had good service almost everywhere we went, and people were very willing to help us with directions.  I even noticed that the men in Brazil are more respectful to women (i.e., the 'ogling' of women is much more covert than in Argentina).

I'm not sure what I was expecting in terms of flora and fauna, but I was also surprised by how lush Rio was.  I saw orchids growing from the trunks of trees, small monkeys darting about the trees on the top of a mountain, and the tallest palm trees ever!

House in Rio covered in plants near Cristo Redentor

And finally...the food...

We had great food in Brazil.  I am not exaggerating at all when I say that I drank three coconuts, ate two to three frozen açai sorbets, and consumed an entire papaya...by myself...everyday.  Oh, and of course we drank caipirinhas!  

Freaking out at a produce market...please forgive the bad hair day

Rio was a great vacation spot, and it seems that the city continues to improve.  With the World Cup and the Olympics looming on the horizon, Cariocas have begun to prepare.  Román and I read about how the city government has bettered the condition of the favelas by bringing in water and services, so that crime has actually decreased. Although we stayed in the more touristy neighborhoods, at no time did I feel unsafe or uncomfortable.  I was really impressed with the cleanliness of the city and the fun vibe.  I look forward to going back to Brazil one day and would especially like to check out the north of the country, since I've heard so many good things about it.

Squinting in the sun above Lagoa and Ipanema Beach

MICHIGAN & DÍA DEL AMIGO

In July, I got to take a couple weeks to visit my family and friends!  Even though Román couldn't come, it was a great way to recharge my batteries (not because he wasn't there!!!).

What did I do on my trip?...

1. I played ladder golf at my Grandpa's on the Fourth of July.  That's him in the picture kicking some ass.

2. I made this cake.  It's a raw, vegan, strawberry and chocolate cheesecake made from cashews and young thai coconut meat.

3.  I went to see Bruno Mars.  My best friend won tickets on the radio (she's really good at winning stuff on the radio, by the way) and was like "You're coming to the concert tonight!'  So I was like, "YEAH I am."  

When I returned to Argentina, it was time to celebrate Friend's Day! Even though many people say that el Día del Amigo is every day of the year, there is one special day that you make sure to get together with your friends.  Román and I took the day to go to the Japanese Garden with our neighbors.  I think it's a great tradition that gives you an excuse to contact all of your friends that you might not have in a while.

Martín and Mica at the garden in BA

Having lunch at the restaurant in the Japanese Garden for Día del Amigo

Also, here is a picture of my cat...

LONDON, BARCELONA, MARRAKECH, MADRID TRIP

A couple weeks ago, Román and I returned from a trip to Europe and North Africa.  My brother invited us to join him on his month-long backpacking trip through Europe, so we said yes (for part of it at least)!  And, just because we would be so close, we decided to go to Morocco as well.

Instead of recounting everything we did, I'll just leave you with some notable notables... because, if you can't tell...I'm pretty lazy these days.

1. Madrid - Madrid looks like Paris to me...more than Paris looked like Paris to me.  Crazy I know.  I loved it though.  It's located in the mountains (well...foothills maybe) and has fresh air and clean streets (I've come to value those things lately).  It is not stuffed full of people like London, so I felt more relaxed.  Also, Madrid has the best Spanish olives I've ever tried in my life.

Park in Madrid

2.  London - I could easily live in London.  It was fabulous.

3. London Food - GOOD LORD, London has so many fabulous food options.  We had ethiopian, indian, vegan, and raw food.  I was even able to order a gluten-free, vegan pizza at a chain restaurant there.  I can't tell you how much I love the food in London.

Román, Keaton, and his awesome friend Sarah in front of the Tower of London

4. Barcelona's Park Güell - Barcelona was nice, but I liked this park the best.  Designed by Gaudí and overlooking the city, it's a great place to relax and look at the landscape and the people.

Gaudí at his finest

5.  Tarragona - While in Spain, we stayed with Roman's friends.  They were wonderful, kind hosts and took us all over the area near where they live.  I was really impressed by some of the oceanside towns that were quiet and lovely.  It would be great to go and spend more time in any one of them, as they are not full of tourists.  If you can't tell, I don't like tourists, even though I am one and I think you should be too.

6. Outer Marrakech - Our first day in Morocco, we took a tour with my cousin Miranda through the high Atlas Mountains, which included a stop at a local house for tea as well as a traditional market.  It was amazing to experience a culture so different from my own, and the first day in Marrakech was nice and beautiful.

On the way to the lake in the Atlas Mountains 

7. Marrakesh - I've always tried to respect cultures that are different from my own, even if I don't agree with all aspects of them.  That being said, one day in the city of Marrakesh was enough for me.  Tourists there are constantly haggled.  Every five seconds, a local will come up to you on the street and tell you that you are going the wrong way or give you incorrect directions on purpose.  They will try anything to get money out of you.  Don't even think about looking lost or you will be attacked by men pulling and pushing for you to follow them.  It is almost mandatory that you bargain for whatever you buy, but we didn't want to by a single thing (save a henna tattoo, which turned out to be terrible) because everyone was so aggressive.

8.  Marrakesh Food - I ate vegetable tangine four times in a row. :-(

9.  Marrakesh Male-Female Relations - Our tour guide the first day told us that Muslim women have a choice when it comes to covering their bodies.  'Choice' (if there was ever a good time to use air quotes, this would be it) is more like it, however.  Most of the women in the city wore either a headscarf or a full-on burka.  I felt very uncomfortable wearing shorts, so I tried to balance coverage with heat while I was there.  Typically, as I mentioned before, I respect cultures that I may not agree with, but it was especially hard this time.  As a woman, at first, I felt incredibly uncomfortable.  Then, that discomfort turned to anger and disgust.  I have never had men look at me the way they did in Morocco: from foot to head, obvious, ogling, and disrespectful.

10.  Marrkesh Architecture and Design - Several places we went were incredible.  Even our hotel was so exotic.  Román keeps saying that he wants our future house to be like a riad with an open courtyard in the middle.

Tombs of the Berber Kings (sorry this picture is tilted...I have no excuse other than I am a terrible photographer)

11. Marrkesh Overall - I got a terrible henna tattoo, had an ATM steal fifty dollars from me, and became horribly ill on the last day so that we had to cancel our trip back to Buenos Aires and stay in a hotel in Madrid a few days.  But, even with all of those things, I would say that I'm glad I experienced the place.

RECIPE: SUPER PROTEIN BARS

I have to admit that I have been having a hard time lately.  Roman and I are waiting for the date for his visa interview so we can move to the US.  We have no idea when it will be.  I feel like my future is out of my control, and it's very difficult for me to handle.  Add to this the fact that I'm not doing anything besides taking Spanish lessons a couple times a week, and it makes for a stressful situation for a person like me.  It seems that when I am busy with school or working, all I want is free time, and when all I have is free time, all I want is to work or take classes.

But, I have found that when I occupy my time, I can handle our situation better.  So, in this post, I am including a recipe that I developed in an attempt to...I don't know...do something.  Well, it's not really a recipe, because all you have to do is put a bunch of stuff (and you can use whatever you want really) into a food processor...but I hope you like it anyway.

Super Protein Bars

1.5 cups walnuts (or raw almonds if you prefer)
2 cups pitted medjool dates (or more based on your preference for sweetness)
* If you are in Argentina, you should check your dates for bugs while pitting.  Actually, this is probably a good idea to do regardless of where you are.
0.5 cups shredded coconut
0.5 cups maca powder
0.5 cups hemp protein powder
0.5 cups cacao powder
1 vanilla bean

Throw the walnuts into a food processor to chop them up until they are very small (...perhaps I need to work on my technical writing a little, no?).  Add the coconut, maca, hemp, cacao, and scraped-out insides of the vanilla bean.  Process a bit more and slowly add the dates. The mixture will not form a dough, but once it looks uniform throughout, stop the processing and empty it into a square baking dish or some sort or square tupperware container.  Press the mixture down into the dish and so that the mixture now forms one cohesive unit of 'dough' or 'bar,' if you will.  Once you are finished pressing it all together, flip over the dish onto a plate and help the dough to fall out.  Once on the plate, cut the dough into bars and refrigerate.  You can also make small balls from the mixture by compacting it in your hands and rolling.

So, there you have it.  These bars are kind of like revved-up Lara Bars.  They are good for putting in your bag and eating as an on-the-go snack.

One day, I promise I will become a better food photographer.

PERU

Román and I recently returned from an amazing vacation in Peru!  Román had been to Peru a few times for work before, but he had never been to the Cusco area, and he had never done anything touristy there.  I had never been at all, and I had always wanted to go! We decided to use his airline miles and to stay for two weeks.  I'm not quite sure why we chose to stay that long, but we had no problem filling our time when we were there.

I always thought that Peru would be beautiful, but it surpassed my expectations.  The landscape, the culture, the history, and the food were all incredible.  I have to note, however, that Peru is also one of the poorest places I have ever been.  But, even with the poverty, most of the people were very kind, and they helped to make our experience in the country a good one.

Although we spent a lot of time visiting various historical sites, the highlights of our trip were our days spent at Machu Picchu, treking to Choquequirao, and visiting Lake Titicaca.

Machu Picchu was...magical.  That is honestly the best way I can explain it.  Román and I woke up at 4:00 am to catch a train and then a bus so that we could climb up Huayna Picchu during our scheduled time slot.  In the typical pictures that you see of Machu Picchu, Huayna Picchu is the mountain directly behind the city.  When we arrived and started climbing, it was rainy, cloudy, and we couldn't see much, but we didn't even care.  It took us two hours to climb to the top, enjoy the 'view,' and climb back down to the city.  The hike was rather difficult, and the fact that it was raining made it more dangerous, but it was fabulous.  When we returned to the city, we were exhausted.  After an hour rest and some food, the sun came out, and we decided to take a private tour of Macchu Picchu, which I absolutely recommend.  We spent the day walking, learning, and then relaxing.

Video of our climb up Huayna Picchu

Machu Picchu with Huayna Picchu in the back

Our next adventure was a four-day trek to Choquequirao, another ancient city of the Incas.  Because it can only be reached by foot, it is largely undisturbed.  It is much bigger than Machu Picchu and has only partially been uncovered.  Our hike was private, but we chose to use a tour agency, since Román and I don't have any backpacking gear with us in Argentina, and we aren't advanced backpackers.  We were provided with a guide, a cook, and a means of transporting our equipment so all we had to carry were our daypacks.  The hike covered forty miles in three days of walking...mind you, that is forty miles in the mountains...and not just any mountains...the Andes.  It was the hardest thing I have ever done in my life.  It was physically exhausting and mentally challenging.  By the time we arrived to Choquequirao, we were so tired we couldn't walk around it.  We spent just an hour exploring.  I realize that sometimes it's about the journey, and not the destination, but in this case, we had been hoping to enjoy the destination too.  On the whole, it was an incredibly rewarding hike, but we would recommend that if you decide to do it, you make sure that the trek is five days, so you can have a day to enjoy the site itself.  

On the trail

View from our campsite the second night...from between my legs (bow chicka wow wow)

Rainbow at Choquequirao

Our last big excursion in Peru was to Lake Titicaca (hehehe).  I honestly didn't understand why Román wanted to visit it.  I think at one point I said something like, "It's just a lake right?"  Coming from Michigan, I've seen my fair share of lakes.  Lake Titicaca was amazing though...not because of its size, but because of the culture of the people living in and around the lake.  We visited a floating man-made island built of dried reeds and home to many people.  It was incredible to see people living on such a small island and making everything, from their homes to their beds, out of reeds.

Las islas flotantes of Lake Titicaca

Lake Titicaca is the highest lake in the world.  It is nearly 4,000 meters above sea level, which makes it the highest place I have ever been.  Actually, throughout our whole time in Peru, we had a little difficulty with the altitude.  We had a difficult time even walking down the street on some days.  After a time though, and by drinking four to five cups of coca tea everyday, we were able to better adjust.  Even with the challenge of the altitude, however, I would definitely recommend that you visit Peru.  If you want information or need suggestions, please feel free to ask me!!!